The clue is in the name: first and foremost, this is about assorted bits of animal. The menu leans heavily on steaks and pork, but the real treats here are the skewers. They are suspended overhead (think Portuguese espetadas) and you haul each chunk off when it's time. Meat here is handled sensitively and delivers plenty of flavour. This is where you come to satisfy even the most deep-set carnivorous urges.