Pompoko don’t waste energy on airs and graces; note the profusion of shouty home-printed signs (“ORDER AND PAY AT COUNTER”, “NO SMOKING”) and picture-based menu, laminated for swift wipability. Whevs. Their astonishing 10-minute turnaround on food orders (even for big groups) could be described as brisk, or brusque, depending on your mood. But who cares when cooking is this good? Everything from crunchy spring rolls and plump tempura prawns (around two quid a pop), all the way up to the more elaborate kimchi udon (still under a fiver) are mouthwatering and filling. They don’t serve booze (partly, I suspect, to discourage lingerers), but you are allowed to bring your own, and fill your face for comfortably under a tenner. We’ll drink to that.