The downtown flagship of this fancy popular local franchise may well resemble a shoebox, but we'll bend over backwards to get a spot. On arrival black-clad staff, sleek as stagehands, deport fancy bread (moist with truffle butter and honey) amid the chatty throng beside the plumpest olives we've seen. Complementary Lobster veloute infuses your welcome with all the salty nuance of the ocean. Foie Gras melts to vanishing point. Fondant potatoes take on nutritious muscularity with spinach and rich jus. Meat dishes are tender to the point of absurdity, wine is rich and unctuous, cocktails infused with coffee make us wide-eyed. It’s worth it. Well worth it.